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Published On: Jun 23, 2007 08:38 PM
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The Waiting
Three weeks into my top end odyssey, and things
are going slowly. I have done some useful research, but am itching to do my
field trip to Croker Island, and from there, a boat trip to Fort Wellington,
Raffles Bay. I can't do that until I get a permit, which is in train, but
meanwhile, I have come across an extremely important booklet, which will be
invaluable for my quest.
A visit to the Northern Territory Archives has
been the most productive of my researches so far in tropical Darwin, although
the parliamentary library, a section of the gleaming tropical multi million
parliamentary building, has also been useful, as has a trip to the museum. An
important part of the history of Fort Wellington, was the visits by Macassan
traders to the region, as they sought the trepang, or sea slug, which they
traded to the Chinese, who valued it highly for its taste, its health benefits,
and not leastly, for its aphrodisiacal qualities. The parliament library has
been a good source of information on the Macassans and their ways.
The museum's excellent maritime
section, has a Macassan Prau, built in recent times, but in the style of those
which plied the coast for perhaps two hundred years, before they were banned
from Australian waters in 1906.
Macassan
PrauThe Northern Territory Archives
was to produce the most exciting discovery so far. I had found on the net some
references to a field trip to Raffles Bay, by the local Historical Society,
which for many years had a man called Peter Spillet as its driving force. I had
expressed my interest in all things relating to Raffles Bay to Cathy, of the
NTA, and she called to let me know that she had a file on Raffles Bay for me to
look at. I was delighted to discover a thick file containing information about a
trip to Fort Wellington, Raffles Bay which had been undertaken by the Historical
Society in 1966, with the support of two army personnel, who also supplied a
Land Rover and trailer in support of the other vehicle.
This trip was a huge undertaking, with
few well defined tracks, and with those that were used subject to collapse,
resulting in bogged vehicles, trailers overturning, and much back tracking and
bush bashing before they attained their goal. When they did find the fort, which
had been abandoned in 1829, they photographed and documented what was left
thoroughly, and importantly for my part, got an accurate fix on the location. It
was type written notes at the beginning of the folder, but buried amongst the
stack of paper work, much of which was correspondence to a Singapore printer,
was a printed booklet, with all of the information, including the photographs
and some drawings of the journey, put together by the late, and much revered
Peter Spillet. Cathy supplied me with
a brochure for the Historical Society, and I contacted and spoke with Yvonne
Forrest, who was aware of the publication, but she was not hopeful that I could
find a copy for myself, something I desperately wanted. The next morning I got a
phone call from a lady who had been contacted by Yvonne. She had two copies of
the booklet, and was happy to post one to me, provided that I then paid for it
by return mail. This is the kind of thing which makes it all worth while coming
up to Darwin, and it provides me with the perfect field guide for my excursion
to Raffles Bay.For now, it is the
waiting. The booklet, at the time of writing this blog, has not yet arrived; nor
has my request to the Minjiling Community on Croker Island for some signatures
from Traditional Owners in support of my visit, before I submit my permit
application to the Northern Land Council. There is a pace to things here in
tropical Darwin, which pays scant regard to the email, fax and internet driven
world, and which allows things to proceed in their own good time, and that is
the way it will unfold. In truth, it is a pace which suits
me.
Post Script: Since writing this blog,
I have received the booklet (above) and today (25th) my signatures from Croker
came through. Off to Croker Island soon, via Murin Air.
Posted: Wed - May 23, 2007 at 12:24 AM
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